“RDV au peak”, “J’ai foiré mon roller”, “J’adore l’outline de ta board”, “Peut-être qu’on devrait essayer de passer la barre en faisant des canards, ou des turtle rolls!”

Comme une impression d’inconnu à la lecture de ces quelques phrases ? Spotyride est là pour vous aider !

Le langage est un élément important dans la pratique du surf car cela permet une meilleure communication au sein de la communauté des surfeurs mais également de renforcer vos connaissances et de s’investir théoriquement dans son sport.

Alors, si aujourd’hui il n’y a pas de vague, mais que vous souhaitez pratiquez le surf, Spotyride vous permet, à travers cet article, de surfer une vague de connaissances pour devenir un expert de votre pratique !

1/ Conditions

a) The surf spot

Beach Break: surf spot with a sandy bottom

Reef Break : surf spot with a rocky bottom or coral reef

Onshore: wind coming from the sea, it tends to flatten the waves and create a fairly messy ocean environment

Offshore: wind coming from the land (also known as a surfers’ best friend!), it tends to deepen the waves and smooth out the water

Cross-shore: wind that blows along the coasts, it tends to influence the sea currents which cause surfers to drift

Period: time between several waves before they break

The bar / the open sea: “Cross the bar” or “Go offshore” refers to the surfer’s desire to go beyond the peak and position himself before the waves break. A good way to catch smooth-faced waves that haven’t broken yet.

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b) The body of water

Break: synonymous with “break” – the wave gradually turns into foam

Peak: place where waves begin to break

Glassy: word describing a smooth body of water, without waves (failing to say that the ocean is a lake!)

Lip: word designating the highest point of a wave before it breaks

Shoulder: end of the wave that has not yet broken

Barrel: synonymous with “tube” – a hollow wave that allows the rider to ride inside the wave before it breaks completely

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Schéma montrant la place de l'épaule et la lèvre par rapport à la vague. Mise en avant des notions de mousse et de déferlement

2/ Surfer’s Equipment

a) Les basiques à savoir

Shaper: refers to the process of manufacturing a surfboard

Board: synonymous with “board” – refers to the surfboard

Nose: designates the front of the board

Tail: designates the back of the board

Leash: the cord that allows the board to be held around the rider’s ankle

Fins: also called “fins”, act as a motor allowing the board to move forward. They are located under the board at the tail level

Wax: wax that is applied to the board before going into the water for better grip on the board

Shape: allows you to describe the overall shape of the board (from nose to tail)

Longboard: 9-foot surfboard (approximately 2m76). Ideal for surfing small waves, thanks to its volume. These boards have the particularity of having a single fin at the tail.

Shortboard: surfboard between 5 feet and 6 feet (approximately between 2m and 1m50). Ideal for medium to large waves!

Fish: surfboard with a tail cut in two, reminiscent of the overall shape of a fish. The fish provides good grip in the waves!

Mini-malibu / Egg: Halfway between the longboard and the shortboard, this type of board has rounded ends at the nose and tail

Outline: front view of the board to observe its overall shape

Rocker: profile view of the board to observe the curve of the board

Wide point: place where the board is widest

Schéma démontrant les distinctions entre roller et outline, et les différentes typologies de surf

c) Abuses

Twin: a surfboard with only 2 fins

Thruster: a surfboard with 3 fins

Quatro: a surfboard with 4 fins

3/ Positioning and maneuvers

a) Positioning

Goofy: surfer with his right foot forward

Regular: surfer with his left foot in front

Front foot: surfer who mainly uses his front foot to maneuver

Back foot: surfer who mainly uses his back foot to maneuver

Frontside: surfing in a position facing the wave

Backside: surf in a position with your back to the wave

b) Taking direction while surfing

For the following directions, we always base ourselves in relation to the surfer and not in relation to our position on the beach!

So :

A right is a left for the practitioner, and a left is a right… Complicated? We summarize this for you below!

A left: breaking wave opening to the left in relation to the surfer

A right: breaking wave opening to the right in relation to the surfer

En se basant par rapport au pratiquant dans l'eau, on voit la prise de direction schématisé de la gauche et la droite

c) Pass the bar

Duck: action performed by the surfer which allows him to pass under the waves, sinking his board using his hands and feet

Turtle Roll: action of going under the wave by gripping the board with your hands, and letting your legs hang to create a form of grip

d) Main surfing tricks

Air: the surfer projects above the wave to perform aerial figures

Rolling: taking a tight turn at the top of a wave

Cutback: action of returning to the trough of the wave after generating speed (basically, it’s a 180 in reverse!)

Bottom turn: taking a turn at the bottom of the wave

Surfeur exécutant un roller

Did you like this article? Don’t hesitate to book your next surf sessions with Spotyride, in a structure near you! #IRideLocal